Puppies are like babies, they are always curious, and they are teething. Since puppies
have a low vantage point and can see things that you can’t, it is important to get down on their level when puppy proofing your home.
Here are some suggestions:
1-Confine puppy in a safe area that they can’t escape from.
2- Don’t leave your puppy unsupervised.
3- Keep your puppy off high decks and balconies where he may fall.
4- Store cleaning supplies, soaps, chemicals, poisons, and antifreeze securely out of reach.
5- Remove poisonous houseplants.
6- Remove or cover any electrical cords or outlets.
7- Keep medications out of reach.
8- Make sure you know where your puppy is before closing any doors or leaving the house.
9- Keep sewing supplies, hardware, and coins out of reach.
10- Keep plastic six-pack beverage holders and plastic bags our of reach.
11- Always have important phone numbers like your vet handy.
Bringing Puppy Home
Finally it is time to bring your new puppy home. Here are a few preparation's that you need to go through to get ready for that new baby.
Create a safe, friendly environment. Remember bringing home your new puppy is like bringing home a new baby. Limit excitement and handling as much as possible. Puppies require about 16 hours of sleep a day. If they do not get proper rest they can get sick.
Here is a checklist;
1- Make sure that all poisonous items are stored out of puppies reach.
2- Remove any poisonous plants.
3- Look at your home from your new puppies point of view and remove hazardous items.
THINGS YOU'LL NEED
There are things that your new puppy will need so I would suggest purchasing them in advance if possible;
1- Food and Water dishes.
2- A collar and a leash.
3- A pin brush for fluffing, and a nice comb. Brushes are great for surface brushing but you really need a comb for getting the mats out and getting down to the skin.
4- Safe and appropriate toys. Provide a wide variety of toys. If chewing becomes a problem try using some of the Bitter Apple sprays they have available.
5- A kennel or crate for sleeping in.
6- A baby gate to keep puppy from going where you don't want him to or to keep him from falling down the stairs.
7- Diamond Naturals Small Breed Puppy.
8- Puppy Treats. We recommend Wellness Just For Puppy Treats and Itty Bitty Buddy Biscuits. You can also use plain Cheerios.
FEEDING YOUR PUPPY
Puppies have different nutritional needs than an adult dog. By feeding a complete and balanced nutritional food you can help maintain heathy teeth, bones, weight, and help keep your dog healthy for a long time to come.
Puppies should be fed 3-4 times a day. We have had food out for them 24/7.
We recommend only feeding dry dog food.
If your puppy is not eating when you bring him home, you can entice your puppy by adding warm water to the food to make it soft.
You can also offer the pup some canned chicken or beef baby food. You can mix this with the dry food.
Try not to make a habit of this as dry food is better for their teeth.
Making the transition easy:
1- Decide on a name and use it all the time.
2- Keep your puppy with you at all times... this will keep him out of trouble.
3- Let sleeping puppies lie. They need their rest as much as you do!
4- Teach young children the proper way to hold and care for the puppy.
5- Don't leave your puppy unattended with young children or other pets until everyone has adjusted well.
1- Establish a routine and stick with it! Take your puppy out after eating and sleeping.
2- Until the puppy is completely trained keep and eye on him!
3- Crate-training is essential! Crate training is much easier to train and housebreak a puppy.
4- Designate a certain potty area and stick with it!
5- Correct the puppies mistakes only when you catch him in the act.
6- It is not uncommon for a puppy to come down with diarrhea from the stress of moving to its new home, change of water or food. If it continues have the pup looked at by your vet.
A great book to invest in and read is "How To Raise a Puppy You Can Live With".
Enroll in a Puppy Kindergarten or Obedience Class. This is highly recommended.
It is fun for the owner as well as the puppy.
Talk with your vet about Frontline Plus which is a once a month flea and tick prevention. Also, talk to your vet about a heartworm tablet to give once a month to prevent heartworm. Heartworm is very expensive to treat once they have it. They get it from Mosquito's.
We are more than willing at anytime to help you out with any concerns you have while owning your pup/dog. Feel free to call us anytime at 207-743-1936 or e-mail me at aTender1@yahoo.com
If you can no longer keep your pet please contact us as we take all of our pups/dogs back.
HYPOGLYCEMIA is a serious side effect of too much insulin, or low blood sugar. Hypoglycemia can be a life threatening, even fatal condition that often happens in very small puppies. But if you puppy is monitored carefully you can prevent this condition.
WARNING SIGNS OF HYPOGLYCEMIA
The occurrence of these signs depends upon how low the blood sugar level has fallen and how far into an attack the puppy is. the further down the list the more serious the case.
LETHARGY (LACK OF ENERGY)
UNBALANCED OR WOBBLY WALKING
EXCESSIVE HUNGER OR REFUSAL TO EAT
SHIVERING OR UNCONTROLABLE TREMBLING
WHAT TO DO DURING AN ATTACK: stay calm and focused. bring the blood sugar back to a safe level, observe your puppy, and call the vet.
If your puppy is acting strangely, displaying one or several of the above signs, you should assume it is hypoglycemia and act accordingly. This is a situation where it is better to be safe than sorry. If your puppy is not hypoglycemic, then your treatment will have just raised the blood sugar causing no harm to your puppy. If your puppy was hypoglycemic, then you probably just saved his life!
While owning a tiny puppy always have Karo syrup, Nutrical, and/or honey available.
Karo works well because it is pure sugar in a liquid form. If Karo is not available then use Nurtical, honey, Pancake syrup, or table sugar dissolved in water. Where ever you and your puppy go there should always be an emergency supply of sugar.
TREATING MILD HYPOGLYCEMIA: If your puppy is showing only mild signs of hypoglycemia, your should treat it by immediately feeding the puppy some of it's regular food. The effects of the food may be enough to counteract the hypoglycemia. If you puppy refuses its regular food, try offering it something it thinks of as a treat. ANY FOOD AT THIS POINT IS OK!!!!!!!!!! Your main concern is to get the blood sugar up to eliminate the signs of hypoglycemia. Observe your puppy for several hours to make sure that the hypoglycemia does not happen again. Also give plenty of fluids to drink as hypoglycemic dogs are usually dehydrated.
TREATING MILD/MODERATE HYPOGLYCEMIA: Karo or honey should be given, either alone or combined with food. Karo can be mixed in with wet food or poured over dry. The Karo will bring the blood sugar up quickly and the food will help to keep it up. Small puppies should be given about 1-2 tablespoons and larger puppies about 0.25-0.5 ml per lb. of body weight. The effect of the Karo will only last for a short period of time and the hypoglycemia may return so observe your pet and give Karo and food as often as needed. Don't forget the water!
SEVERE HYPOGLYCEMIA: If your puppy's case is severe, especially if it is having seizures or unconscious, you must give Karo immediately!
Rub small amounts of the Karo on your puppy's gums. DO NOT put a lot of liquid in the puppy's mouth. This could cause the unconscious puppy to choke! DO NOT stick your fingers in the mouth of a seizing puppy. YOU COULD GET BITTEN!!!!!!!!!
Call your vet!!!!!!!!! If you can not contact your vet, call any vet and get additional instructions right away!
FOLLOW-UP: Whenever a puppy has a moderate to severe hypoglycemic reaction, you should call your vet. The possibility of a repeat episode is strong!!!!!!
Repeated attacks can cause brain damage. IF IN DOUBT CALL YOUR VET!!!!!!!!!!
PREVENTION OF HYPOGLYCEMIA: Please make sure that your puppy is eating. Tiny breeds have high metabolism and small stomach and need food and water available at all times. Please don't just set food out and assume your puppy is eating. Please watch your puppy and observe the amount eaten to be sure it meets the required daily amounts. Reduce and monitor ruff play time with children and other pets - your puppy is still a baby!
Undisturbed sleeping time and sufficient rest is a must. Within a few weeks the attention span and waking periods of time of your little one will get longer and longer.
Feel free to call us with any questions.
As a note: Hypoglycemia is unlikely to happen but we like to
keep owners informed just in case.
Puppies and dogs can develop severe hypoglycemia after consuming sugar-free gum sweetened with the sugar-alcohol xylitol. In humans, xylitol has little to no effect on plasma insulin or glucose levels, but in dogs xylitol is a strong promoter of insulin release and can cause severe hypoglycemia with collapse and seizures. With the increased appearance of xylitol-sweetened products in the US, xylitol toxicosis in dogs may become more common.
FOODS TO AVOID
1. Onions (Both onions and garlic contain the toxic ingredient Thiosulphate. But onions are more of a danger. Many dog biscuits contain *small* amounts of garlic – garlic contains less of this toxin so huge amounts would need to be consumed to be toxic. And, by the way, this poison builds up the system – it can be toxic in one large dose – or with repeated consumption of small amounts.)
2. Chocolate (Chocolate contains Theobromine, a compound that is a cardiac stimulant and a diuretic. This can be fatal to dogs.)
3. Grapes (Grapes are dangerous because of an unknown substance which is toxic to dogs – affects canine’s kidneys)
4. Raisins (See above.)
5. Most Fruit Pits and Seeds (Contain Cyanogenic Glycosides resulting in cyanide poisoning – though the fruit itself is OK.)
6. Macadamia Nuts (Macadamia nuts contain an unknown substance that is toxic to dogs.)
7. Bones (Most bones should *not* be given (especially chicken bones) because they can splinter and cause laceration of the digestive system and/or become lodged in your pet’s throat – so they also pose a choking hazard.)
8. Potato Peelings and Green Potatoes (Contain Oxalates, which can affect the digestive, nervous, and urinary systems.)
9. Rhubarb leaves (See above.)
10. Broccoli (Broccoli is only toxic in large quantities.)
11. Green parts of Tomatoes or Green Potatoes(Contain oxalates, which can affect the digestive, nervous, and urinary systems.)
12. Yeast Dough (Yeast Dough can produce gas and swell in your pet’s stomach – leading to rupture of the digestive system)
13. Coffee, Coffee Grounds, Tea, Soft Drinks (Coffee, tea, & most soft drinks are dangerous due to the caffeine.)
14. Beer/Wine/Alcohol of any kind (Alcohol of any kind could lead to coma or even death.)
15. Human Vitamins (Human vitamins, especially those containing iron, can cause damage to the lining of the digestive system as well as cause kidney and liver damage)
16. Moldy or Spoiled Food (I think this goes without saying.)
17. Persimmons (Persimmons can cause intestinal blockage)
18. Raw Eggs and Raw Fish (Raw eggs and some raw fish can cause Salmonella poisoning.)
19. Salt, Baking Soda, Baking Powder (In large amounts these can cause an electrolyte imbalance – and severe electrolyte imbalances can lead to muscle spasm or even congestive heart failure.)
20. Mushrooms (Mushrooms may contain toxins which could cause liver and kidney damage)
21. Sugar-Free Foods (Sugar-free foods containing Xylitol have been found to cause liver failure in some dogs.)
22. Nutmeg (Nutmeg can cause tremors, seizures, and central nervous system damage.)
23. Excessive Fatty Foods (Excess fatty foods can cause Pancreatitis.)
24. Avocado (All parts of the avocado and avocado tree are toxic to dogs.)
25. Diary Products (Dairy products don’t usually pose a great danger; but many dairy product have high fat content (see number 23) – and many pets are lactose intolerant – some pets more than others. Lactose intolerance leads to gas and diarrhea; though small amounts of yogurt and cheese are usually fairly well tolerated.)
Keep these 25 toxic foods in mind when cooking for your dog. There may be other foods that your dog can not consume; so always ask your vet when you are unsure about anything concerning your pets.
DECISION TO HAVE YOUR MALE DOG NEUTERED AND/OR YOUR FEMALE DOG SPAYED
Having your pet spayed or neutered is an inexpensive and realistic method of pet population control. The number of unwanted adult and young animals that are euthanized each year in the United States is astounding. Aside from the pet overpopulation problem, neutering a male dog and spaying a female helps prevent (and even eliminates) medical problems associated with hormonal imbalances.
Male and female dogs reach sexual maturity around 9 months of age. Often, male dogs reach maturity slightly later than females. Sometimes confusion exists between sexual maturity and normal puppy behavior. Normal puppy behavior is often exhibited when he (or she) straddles the leg(s) of an individual. This behavior has nothing to do with sexual maturity and is performed by both male and female puppies.
Males should be fixed at 5 months of age so they do not become leg lifters and learn to mark their territory.
It is usually noticeable when a female dog reaches sexual maturity. A bloody discharge is seen around her external genital area. This bloody discharge is significant and can last up to 10-14 days. Along with the discharge, the external genitals become swollen. This is the first phase of her heat cycle and is called "estrus." During the last few days of the estrus phase, the female is receptive to the male and can get pregnant.
Aside from having puppies, non-spayed females are more susceptible to mammary gland tumors and uterine infections. Pyometras (infections of the uterus) are extremely common in non-spayed females and almost always require emergency surgery. Mammary tumors get large and multiply quickly if left untreated. Having your dog spayed can eliminate both of these.
Speak with your vet about these options.